| We hope you enjoy your visit. You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. When you register for an account you will see the following message -Due to the amount of "spammers" trying to get on the board all registrations must be approved by me. What this means is that after you register your registration must be authorized. Also your email address has to be verified, you will receive an email with a link YOU MUST CLICK ON THIS LINK TO VERIFY YOUR EMAIL OR YOUR ACCOUNT WILL NOT BE APPROVED. I check the message board several times a day and approve registrations as they come in. Sorry for the wait but it is necessary to keep the spam off the boards.Thanks,Koz It is very important that you click on the link in the email to validate your email. Please check your spam folder as the email message may be sent there by your email provider. IF YOU DO NOT CLICK ON THIS LINK YOUR ACCOUNT WILL NOT BE APPROVED !!! Join our community! If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: |
| Tucker Tracks and wipers | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 30 2013, 02:00 PM (1,775 Views) | |
| 600SDI | Apr 30 2013, 02:00 PM Post #1 |
|
Advanced Operator
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
We have a 2008 Tucker Terra 2000 and have been having nearly constant issues with the tracks. After a season and a half the original Teryuk tracks lost many of the drive lugs on the inside. After a bit of run around, they were finally replaced with Camoplast tracks under warranty. 2 seasons later, we replaced the right rear track due to it splitting open lengthwise along the wheel lines. We were given a bunch of BS about wipers, possible axle ice buildup and track tension by the dealer, and ended up buying 1 new track for well over 5 grand. Now the other 3 are splitting lengthwise as well. We are very careful about tension, and always adjust by the book, but end up having to tighten up a bit from there due to ratcheting. We also stop and check for axle ice regularly, and try to keep the wipers on it. We just recently noticed that the wipers are actually too tall to clear the track adjuster body without hitting (all 8 are the same) so I'm sure this adds to the frequency of wiper loss, and has warn a groove in the wipers that have held on long enough. Looking for input and feedback or to hear if others are having similar issues. So far, my observations are this: The Teryuk tracks are just plain junk. The Camoplast tracks are only slightly better, and if you run them to spec they ratchet, tighten them they split. And with the adjuster and wiper design, they just plain hit every time by due to poor design. Seems that the track and driver design on these just can't handle the load of pulling a drag for very long. We have yet to get 3 full seasons or much over 1200 hours out of a set which isn't long for ~$22,000. per set. We plan on keeping this machine for at least 1 more season, but will be hard pressed to buy another Tucker unless some serious design changes to the Tracks, driveline and front blade are made. |
![]() |
|
| RVR RNR | May 3 2013, 04:40 PM Post #2 |
|
Super Advanced Operator
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
How many hours on this unit and is it a std. track or long track unit? (just curious) Also, what size drag are you pulling? (again, it shouldn't matter). I have heard nothing but bad about the Korean made tracks but, i thought Camoplast had their track issues resolved by now. Guess not.
|
![]() |
|
| 600SDI | May 6 2013, 10:56 AM Post #3 |
|
Advanced Operator
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Standard track with ~2800 hours on it pulling a 9' drag. I think it comes down to a poor track design that can't handle the load. The only positives that I have heard about this machine is that it "drives nice" and you can get parts at the local auto supply. I guess with the amount of service and repair required, parts availability is nice, although much of what we have needed we had to get from the dealer. |
![]() |
|
| RJ85MSP | May 6 2013, 10:59 AM Post #4 |
|
Advanced Operator
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
1) The paddles on the inside of the track have a specific job of keeping ice and snow from building up on the top of the axel tube which if not done will build up and create increased tension and misalingment of the track to the sprocket teeth. The ice and snow will build up and eventually buldge the track as it goes over the sprocket. Looking at it, the track will be higher up on the inside than the outside. The paddles will get chewed up, come off or get torn. When noticed, simply replace them. It's like gluing on a bike tire patch basically but you will need to get the track up to room temperature for at least 24 hours for the best adhesion. Cleaner, primer/adhesion promoter and Loctite 495 is all that is needed to attach. 2) As for your track issues. What procedure are you using from the manual? The in field one with torque wrench or measuring the sag from under the center wheel (where applicable)? What ever one you do always do it when the track has been run for a while to take away the set from sitting for a period of time. I prefer the sag method. Our club runs them on the looser side, just tight enough to keep from skipping on the cogs. 3) Check your alingment seasonally. The adjusters should be pushing the section straight out, use a long straight edge and check from the inside carrier where the spindle tubes are and the pins. If it's not straight you will need to reshim the end adjusters. (This generally causes cog and wheel wear but any improvement overall increases track life) Long track customers, you can re pin the rear adjuster out a bit by drilling a new hole in the adjuster which will allow the front adjuster to come back in a bit to give you a bit more tensionability overall. We have been through all the what to do and what not to do with the tracks when they show signs of issues. Basically the best way to get life out of the tracks no matter the brand is to run them as loose as possible to the point of not ratchining or flooping around. Reduced speeds overall, especially when on roads or areas with very little snow for cooling. (they get extreemly hot as speed goes up) If the tracks start to split, monitor it, run them until they can not propel the groomer any longer or can't keep tension, or you are unable to get the required tension. Too many times folks have changed tracks before they absolutely needed to. I understand some may not like that idea, that's your own choice. Many clubs have done the replace thing while others have done the wait and see. Everyone of the clubs I have dealt with over the years have all said, we wouldn't have believed it if we didn't try it. Most of them ran two+ years on tracks they were going to change and some even traded in during that time which of course saves you the cost of replacement as well. Option: For customers in the trade in mode or buy new mode, opt for the raised height carrier design. It has better sprocket contact which will allow better sprocket teeth engagement when the track is looser limiting ratcheting. It does raise the vehicle height by approx 4". We went with the raised height after our 2008 model was traded in. Wouldn't go back to the standard height from the performace we seen with the raised height. It pulls so much better and in 450 hours we tightened the right front one time, and the left rear twice. That's it. Most customers I dealt with in the 6 years as Service Mgr would see 4000+ on tracks that were in constant snow. The worst was around 1500 hours but that had a lot to do with operators and lack of care more than anything. |
![]() |
|
| 600SDI | May 6 2013, 12:44 PM Post #5 |
|
Advanced Operator
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
We have done, tried and checked all that you have mentioned. No icing issues here. The threaded adjuster tube on the track end frame is what takes the wipers out. We have glued lots back on. Been running as loose as possible, but they ratchet on hills unless pretty tight. So having 2 lengthwise splits showing broken wires in them at 1000 hours is ok as long as the track doesn't fall off? This issue is NOT unique to our club or machine, as most that I have spoken to have similar issues. I'm not looking for all the reasons why we should accept such poor life or run them until it stops, but rather see if anyone has found a real solution or gotten some real life out of these. |
![]() |
|
| RJ85MSP | May 10 2013, 05:54 PM Post #6 |
|
Advanced Operator
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
No, seeing wires or cables isn't alarming to me within reason. I know for a fact they don't just happen overnight and I also know 100% there are certain things that contribute to it more then anything. 1) Tension, 2) Terrain factors, 3) Speed, 4) Operators, 5) Cowboying the groomer when it gets stuck causes the cat to hop and can damage a track in seconds. (have you been around all your operators at night to see what happens? No one can be there all the time and some people simply damage more then others) Not everyone is the same of course, but just because it's cosmetically looking bad, what corelation does that have on the peformance of the track in it's ability to do it's job of propelling the vehicle forward or backward? I don't care that you want to change your tracks, complain and spend clubs money for no reason. I prefer to run the things until they are not maintaing tension, you can see the wheels from the top surfaces of the tracks or it's not possible to keep it from ratcheting and I feel others should be made aware that you can go a long time on a bad looking track before "having" to replace it versus replacing it based on just "thinking" it's bad. What's wrong with giving it a try once to prove me right or wrong? |
![]() |
|
| RJ85MSP | May 10 2013, 06:00 PM Post #7 |
|
Advanced Operator
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
As for the paddles, they are easily replaced, basically a glorified bike patch sort of application. You should replace them if missing all (2 on standard track, 3 on long track machines). They do work in snow conditions that are prone to slush/ice build up on the axle tubes in certain weather conditions. Track must be at room temp all the way through the core and do use adhesion promoter with the loctite 495 glue and quick clamps to hold in place while the glue dries. Blades were redesigned in 2010 to be much more agressive and taller, stronger and able to push more snow. Screens are now intergrated into the blade and are not removable or as easily damaged as the previous models. Push frames are much stronger and heavier gauge as well. |
![]() |
|
| 600SDI | May 13 2013, 03:46 PM Post #8 |
|
Advanced Operator
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
We have been replacing the wipers as needed, but again, when the wipers hit both ends of the track carrier by design, how would you expect them to stay on?? Down time mid season is not an option for us, so each season we have to decide based on history and experience if things are going to make it thru the next season. If not, they need to be replaced or repaired in the off season so that they do make it. We now have one "spare" track that was removed from the right rear last year (after only about 700 hours on it) due to splitting and the wires showing and breaking. This may give us a little insurance to try and run the other 3 tracks until one fails completely. As far as what operators may have done what and when to the machine, hard saying, but the same operators have run our belted steel track BR and it's blade with no issues with the durability of the tracks or blade. BR with 3000 hours: Just now due for tracks, blade is good, regular Maint. on the rest of it. Tucker with 3000 hours: 3rd set of tracks, 4 blade curl cylinders, 2 blade push frame rebuilds, 1 blown front pinion bearing and gears, 1 rebuilt rear. diff., and more than a dozen different odd repairs in addition to lots of regular maint. Dollars per hour, it's hard for me to justify what it takes to keep a Tucker going. |
![]() |
|
| RJ85MSP | May 15 2013, 01:39 PM Post #9 |
|
Advanced Operator
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Not sure what you are having adjuster issues with but we do not have the wipers hitting the adjuster at all on our cats. Since 2001 we have only lost 1 paddle. In 2008 they were nicked up but I just cut a bit of it out to eliminate it tearing to pieces as it only happened on the one corner of the paddle. In 2008 some time the carrier adjustments were changed on the long track which eliminated the threaded bolt from sticking out or going towards the track. Your's must be the original design I'm thinking as our 2011 didn't have any issues with nicking the paddles. Blade design from a BR to a Tucker is apples to oranges. Main thing is in how it's mounted. (Frame versus running gear) When mounted to the running gear it won't do as much as what a frame mounted set up can do. Hence the BR was originally designed around the ski market which "pushes" snow and doesn't tow it around like trail groomers. That being said the Tucker blade is only made to push snow/moguls. Roll cylinders will come apart if something solid is tagged as the nut on the bottom of the cylinder usually pulls out of the threads. Most of us have had that issue at some point or another. All of our occasions it has been because of a curb or rock. Blade design has improved and gotten much stronger. The push frame is heavier gauge steel now, the braces are better designed from the 2008 which used very short braces behind the tilt bar. The new ones are double the size and thickness. Blade itself is much heavier, taller and does a better job at it's main job. However, you hit a curb you will still potentially pull the roll cylinder apart. When your BR has hydro problems (if it does) you will be praising the Tucker and it's ease of maintenance and availabilty of parts and places that understand the systems versus the BR's. Remember, I was a service mgr at Track Inc and it was a BR dealer (ski vehciles only BR 350etc) and we had our fair share of very expensive pump issues and drive computers. Each has it's pluses and minues. For snowmobile trail grooming the Tucker usually prevails because of the whole package from start to finish over it's competition. |
![]() |
|
| 600SDI | May 15 2013, 04:49 PM Post #10 |
|
Advanced Operator
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Just got a call from a neighboring club today. They have a 2008 and a 2011 Tucker 2000. Both are also having track splitting issues at low hours like we are. As far as the blades, I see that from '08 to '09 , and again from '09 to '11 the blades were beefed up. Increasing material thickness and gusseting at least twice in 3 model years tells me that there is definitely a design issue that was being changed. Why can't Tucker Just admit to that and offer a discount on an upgrade if they think they've got it solved. |
![]() |
|
| RJ85MSP | Jun 7 2013, 03:33 PM Post #11 |
|
Advanced Operator
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Nothing I say about this will help you, your mind has been made up. Tracks aren't the problem that customers think they are, or should I say as bad as the perception is with some owners. Each to their own. Seen too many times where they were changed prematurly. Not my problem, just gets to be a broken record because most people don't have the background information and knowledge of it. Blades were changed through the years to make stronger, improve on design and also when improvements can be made to the manufacturing process things will change. The changes made in late 09 or early 10 have been very possitive. No manufacture should go back and retro things because they have changed. You can buy the parts to make your's updated. They will fit. The only thing that would be a bit of work would be the hydraulic connections as they are now down mounted to the plow mount instead of the chassis above the 5th wheel. |
![]() |
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · General Discussion · Next Topic » |





![]](http://z1.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)



10:25 AM Jul 11