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| D/C electric actuator problems....; what are you doing when they go bad? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 7 2010, 11:13 PM (1,472 Views) | |
| rivercat | Jan 7 2010, 11:13 PM Post #1 |
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Hello all we have a few sled drawn drags that use a D/C actuator that runs from the sled, we have had our fair share of troubles with them NOT standing up, We called Mogal Master and they are now recommending a electric over hydraulic set up they are now using, does anyone have any insights? thanks in advance |
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| arly | Jan 8 2010, 07:36 AM Post #2 |
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I for one don't have any idea what a mogul masters is, or how they use actuators. I'd suggest stating its use, actuators LBS, length of travel and photos of your current units.
Edited by arly, Jan 8 2010, 07:54 AM.
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| http://keweenawnordic.org/ [/url] keweenawnordicskiclub.blogspot.com [/url] | |
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| RangerGroomer | Jan 8 2010, 08:26 AM Post #3 |
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We have converted all of our sled drags over to electric hydraulic units with rams. The cost is almost the same, around $400 for the ram and hyd. pack. In years past I have had to replace 2-3 of the electric screw type actuators. It has been a couple years with the hyd. now and no problems. Not to mention the hyd. unit is 10 times faster than the actuators are. |
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| rivercat | Jan 8 2010, 09:40 AM Post #4 |
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RG I am being told $575 with freight from Mogul Master, (Shop Industrial) do you know where you got yours, and the price for sure? |
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| couchsachraga | Jan 8 2010, 09:43 AM Post #5 |
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Electric over hydraulic is the way to go for the Mogul Masters from folks I've talked to. Most non-manual adjustable LaRue Trail Planes are electric over hydraulic now too - they just hold up to the abuse better. I'm surprised YTS hasn't gone that route, though I suspect they are concerned about fluid on the ski trail (less of a concern with sleds). The other issue for us XC folks is the linear actuators are more precise- when you turn off the power they STOP. The electric over hydraulic units will continue about 1/4" a lot of the time - may not matter as much for sleds when you are digging deep anyway, but when you are essentially just renovating the "icing on the cake" (I think that's what Cowboy called it... and it is an excellent way to think of it... we XC folks really just work with the top layer + any new snow) a 1/4" on the actuator (potentially more on the knives / blade) makes a BIG difference. I've heard of folks with the YTS Ginzu's shearing the Duff Norton actuators over time, and replacing them with other units. I picked up one from that brand (drawing a blank on it now), and it is much slower than the Duff Nortons that YTS used to use (they're using different ones now), but also rated a lot higher. So far it's held up well, but it will take more than one season. For Arly - Mogul Master to the snowmobile Trail Grooming world is what Tidd or YTS are to us - one of the standards almost everyone in that realm has heard of, and what a lot of other groomers get compared too. Actuators typically on the blade, and sometimes on a wheel to allow easy backing up. Really well built (at least the ones I've seen) impressive units. Not cheap though! |
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| rivercat | Jan 8 2010, 10:08 AM Post #6 |
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I am such a DOPE,,,, I just figured out the Cross County talk means as in "Cross County Skiing " DUH!!!!!!! not ,, across the country, I am sorry,! does anyone know if I can move my threat to General Discussion? |
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| RJW | Jan 8 2010, 11:27 AM Post #7 |
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Dont worry, I made that mistake last year. Every-one on this site seems to want to help no matter what your grooming with or the application. We have an 8-04 mm with elec., always have problems with freezing and not working,we are going to change over to elec./hyd when this one dies. We built a 6' drag for use behind my rhino and used elec./hyd pack and it works great. Don't waste your money on a elec. screw type! A little more work to mount the hyd pack & battery but is worth the time now and little agravation later.
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| e2spear | Jan 8 2010, 06:19 PM Post #8 |
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Call me on Monday at 800-660-6680. We have set up a lot of drags and converted many in the last few years. Eric. or eric@mountainmachineworks.com |
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| MotorHead | Jan 9 2010, 08:39 AM Post #9 |
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Your not alone, I did the same thing with my first post. lol |
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Dont worry, I made that mistake last year. Every-one on this site seems to want to help no matter what your grooming with or the application. We have an 8-04 mm with elec., always have problems with freezing and not working,we are going to change over to elec./hyd when this one dies. We built a 6' drag for use behind my rhino and used elec./hyd pack and it works great. Don't waste your money on a elec. screw type! A little more work to mount the hyd pack & battery but is worth the time now and little agravation later.

4:31 AM Jul 11