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2010 Skandic Set Up; Set up tips
Topic Started: Dec 28 2009, 01:37 PM (2,471 Views)
phatires
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Hey all,
Our club just bought a 2010 Ski Doo Skandic 800. Hooking this up to our small trail tenderizer resulets in the almost complete inablility to turn. I have tightend down the suspension strap to put more weight on the skis with very little result.

I am looking for tips, new skis, nose wieghts or all of the above.

Thanks,
Matt
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phatires
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I might add that I have an 84" ginzu in the mail and really need to get this sled set up soon
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couchsachraga
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Two thoughts:
1) Definitely go with the "gooseneck" on the Ginzu. Yes, it is expensive. It is worth it! Moving the weight forward gives you more traction, it is easier to steer (does not pick the skis up as much), and the ability to turn around in a short area without unhitching saves your back (that alone is worth the price).
2) Seriously consider the Simmons Flexi-skis. While I haven't used them (they don't make them for Alpines, and the center I worked at for years wouldn't spend the $ for the Skandics) you'll find with a quick search on here a lot of folks with a lot of experience say they can make a big difference.

welcome, and good luck!
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skier2
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definitly simmons flex ski, and weight in front over the skis, i just layed 50lbs weight in the bottom bay below engine. you will see big differnce with the skis though.
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semntrails
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There are some simple suspension adjustments you can do too, besides the strap - probably won't see a difference on an empty sled but it'll help counteract the weight of a drag. Can't tell you exactly what to do from memory but they are in the operators manual and take about 5 min.

I don't think you can put much weight in the engine bay like you can on the 550's - if someone has I'd like to see pictures. We're looking at adding weight to the front of ours as well. ABR has a 'horn' on the front of theirs although it looks like you need to remove it if you want to open the engine cover and have it stay open. The Birkie snowmobiles have weight plates mounted below the radiator opening - looks solid and out of the way but if you have to go through a lot of deep snow (8"+) it looks like they could drag and cause a plowing action.

The Birkie groomers found adding weight to the front worked best for them- they didn't like the Simmon's skis on the 800's. Although I think they had tried the original ones before the wider ones were available.

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phatires
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10" wide flexi skis for the Skandic run about 440, I also plan on studding the track for the MN icy snow we useally have to deal with.

I have been to the ABR clinic and like the nose weight idea, just a matter of getting them made.

thanks


matt
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couchsachraga
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Careful with the studs - they will make turning even more difficult. I'd try it without them first.

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Steve.M
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cs beat me too it-yes, studs will make turing harder, but you have to have them to pull up hills in hardpack. Simmons skis are #1 priority in my book. EVERY Skandic SWT we have had/have , has them right away. They are a must. The gooseneck hitch, again, yes, the wt is moved forward, and it makes a big difference, and just as important, like was posted, is the ability to turn around in the middle of a trail.
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tolson
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The other thing you can do is increase the "preload" on the rear and center springs on the suspension. This will stop the suspension from compressing from the weight of the drag and keep more weight on the skis. Your owners manual should show you how to do this.

The gooseneck hitch and Simmons skis are also a must.
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Ricardo
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Set rear spring preload cam to the highest(#4) setting. Also, open the tool kit and dump out the contents in order to find the four aluminum horseshoe washers. These are installed behind the rubber bump stops which are just behind the rear arm of the suspension. The rubber stops are threaded with no lock nuts, will usually loosen by hand, screw them out far enough to put two of the horseshoe washers behind the rubber and tighten back down. The objective is to keep the stopper closer to the arm to keep the arm from swinging back as far. As the arm swings back it transfers weight to the rear, causing the skis to lift and steering ability to decrease. Makes a noticable improvement in steering particularly from a start and at very low speeds. This procedure is also shown in the owners manual but the illustration they use is small and hard to understand unless you know what you are looking at.
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mt groomer
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Ricardo
Jan 1 2010, 10:19 PM
Set rear spring preload cam to the highest(#4) setting. Also, open the tool kit and dump out the contents in order to find the four aluminum horseshoe washers. These are installed behind the rubber bump stops which are just behind the rear arm of the suspension. The rubber stops are threaded with no lock nuts, will usually loosen by hand, screw them out far enough to put two of the horseshoe washers behind the rubber and tighten back down. The objective is to keep the stopper closer to the arm to keep the arm from swinging back as far. As the arm swings back it transfers weight to the rear, causing the skis to lift and steering ability to decrease. Makes a noticable improvement in steering particularly from a start and at very low speeds. This procedure is also shown in the owners manual but the illustration they use is small and hard to understand unless you know what you are looking at.

Does this apply to the swt 800?
Our Skidoo dealer said the only suspension adjustment is the front limiter strap, which is tightened all the way down. Our's is a 2009 model. The owners manual shows several adjustments- not of which seem to apply to this model.
Sled does not turn very well , pulling a Ginzu w/gooseneck.

Has anyone tried replacing just the carbides w/ more agressive ones, or is it best to replace the skiis?
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Steve.M
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Replace the skis for sure-they make a huge difference. The older skandics came stock with huge flotation skis-probably the worst combination for steering while grooming. The double runners and horseshoe shape of the Simmons skis really make a difference.
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Ricardo
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Yes applies to SWT800(and 550) any year. My experience has been that snowmobile dealers(at least here in the US) know absolutely nothing about utility sleds and care even less.
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yoopergroomer
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We just completed a DVD presentation on setting up your snowmobile for grooming. It will be shown at the Jan 21 Grooming CLinic. www.abrtrails.com
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mt groomer
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Ricardo
Jan 1 2010, 10:19 PM
Set rear spring preload cam to the highest(#4) setting. Also, open the tool kit and dump out the contents in order to find the four aluminum horseshoe washers. These are installed behind the rubber bump stops which are just behind the rear arm of the suspension. The rubber stops are threaded with no lock nuts, will usually loosen by hand, screw them out far enough to put two of the horseshoe washers behind the rubber and tighten back down. The objective is to keep the stopper closer to the arm to keep the arm from swinging back as far. As the arm swings back it transfers weight to the rear, causing the skis to lift and steering ability to decrease. Makes a noticable improvement in steering particularly from a start and at very low speeds. This procedure is also shown in the owners manual but the illustration they use is small and hard to understand unless you know what you are looking at.
Thanks for the tip. I finally got down and cleared out the snow from inside the track. The preload was set @ the lightest setting, so cranked that all the way up.
The washers were easy to install behind the bumper.
I also strapped a 20# dumbell to each of the ski legs for some added 'ballast'.
Hopefully there will be a noticeable differnce in the Skandic's handling.
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