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Studding an Alpine I...
Topic Started: Jan 21 2009, 09:09 PM (798 Views)
couchsachraga
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After replacing my tracks, I'm planning on adding some sort of traction device (stud). The tracks I took off had 4-pointed "ice cups" that worked fairly well.

Since I can't find them, I'm planning on using "Star Studs" (both a John Deere and Woody's part #), as they are cheaper than "normal" studs, and given where I run (hard packed snow / iced over hard pack, not lake ice nor roads) I've heard they should be OK.

My questions are two fold:
1) Has anyone ever used "star studs", and what did you think of them?
http://www.denniskirk.com/1/1/65365-john-deere-star-studs-five-point-08250.html

2) What pattern might be best? Right now I'm thinking of studding every-other section (71 sections on a 139" track...and being an Alpine there are two of them) in a "backwards V" pattern (two studs close together, skip a track, two studs further apart, skip a track, two studs furthest apart, skip a track, back to two studs close together). It's basically the "72 Stud" pattern, but spread out a little more, and on a 139" track.


As some of you may recall, the Alpine track lugs don't stick up very far (1/2 or so), and as such when pulling a drag up a hill a little more bite would be nice. I'm hoping not to give up TOO much steering...right now on hard pack I have it nicely dialed in on both machines (one machine also steers well in powder, the other not so much. The difference is one ski has a 1/2" "skeg" on it that the carbide and "normal" runner are welded on to...the other one does not). I have the air shocks set up on one, and it does help, especially backing up.

Thank you for any thoughts / opinions!


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Sherpa-man
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How's your tunnel clearance? That may dictate your studding... seems to me the Alpines aren't blessed with a whole lot of room?
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couchsachraga
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Sherpa Man - you are correct that there isn't a ton of room in there. My one sled had "Ice Klaws" on it with no clearance issues. Measuring from the top of the lug to the lowest tunnel support gave me about 1.25 inches. Looking at the track lug height, it was recommended to me to put a 0.75 stud in. I looked at those, then stumbled across the star studs (woody's and JD 6 point, as well as larger 5 point that are more similar to what I had previously). These I believe are 5/8 and 11/16 high (less than "normal" studs would be). I have yet to find a recommended stud pattern for them, let a lone something for Alpines (I'm assuming two tracks less studs are better, so you can still turn a bit (unless you have a Sherpa, of course B) ), but I know little of studs and sleds other than the times I've operated studded and non-studded machines for ski centers in the past.

Thank you....
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bmnc
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I would not recommend metal studs as there is not much clearance in the tunnel, plus you will gain very little traction in soft snow as metal traction devices are for ice. If the tracks slap the tunnel you can cut through the supports. We have been using Simmons paddles with great success. Contact Simmons Flex Skis and see if they have any left as they don't make them any more with that advent of paddle tracks. You will have to cut them down to a height of about 1" tall and space them about every 10" on the track for a 6" cleat. Cut the 6" cleats down to fit the outer belt and attach with one bolt. Get some 2" x 3/16" flat plate steel and install it on the inside of the outer side of the ski. You will have to cut it to match the bottom profile of the ski bottom and just install it with 1/4" bolts. I guarantee you will see a huge improvement in traction and turning ability. We have been doing this to alpines for years and you can turn on a dime and pull like a tractor. We even added Simmons paddles to our Skandic with great success. If you need any further info let me know.
Curt
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couchsachraga
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Thank you for the idea Curt! i hadn't thought it was possible to increase the lug height.... but that makes a lot of sense!


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couchsachraga
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Sent you a PM re: the track paddles.


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