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Mogul Master Drag Shear Pin
Topic Started: Feb 26 2008, 09:42 AM (1,345 Views)
KCnMarley
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This past week we started grooming a new trail that had been logged this past fall. Since the trail has changed a bit since we groomed it last year there are a few new stumps and rocks that we have hit w/ our 8 x 16 MM drag.

Twice we have seperated the drag from the ram steer unit and we are starting to elongate the hole were the shear pin goes.

We are looking at two options:

1. Weld flat stock on the top and bottom of the neck and continue to use a shear pin.

2. Weld the drag directly to the ram steer and try not to hit things that don't move.

Any advice in this matter would be helpful.

Thanks
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Joseph206
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Convert to trip blades and eliminate the shear pin. You would be much Happier. ;)

PORKUPINE LODGE GROOMERS.
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KCnMarley
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Sorry I did not claify, but the unit does have trip blades. The biggest problem seems to be when we catch the drag frame on hidden stumps.

Thanks
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groomerbob
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Sounds like you're in a situation where the shear pin is a necessity. No one plans on hitting things.

Your shear pin hole tolerances have to be tight. Otherwise the shear pin will bend instead of snap. Could you drill a completely new hole a couple of inches from the old one?
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Joseph206
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Mine is hooked to a PB100 with pintle hook no shear pin and it works great it cuts sod like a bulldozer and pulls rocks out ,if it catches a stumps it either pulls them out or it just trips the blades and no problem, it nocks the frozen snow and ice off the drag. You dont even feel it in the Tug. :rolleyes:
PS Groomer Bob
Youre right we shouldnt hit anything but we dont get the snow some get and sometimes we get alittle close to Mother Earth.

PORKUPINE LODGE GROOMERS.
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groomerbob
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Joseph206
Feb 26 2008, 11:12 AM
PS Groomer Bob
Youre right we shouldnt hit anything but we dont get the snow some get and sometimes we get alittle close to Mother Earth.

I should have clarified. We have trip blades AND a shear pin too. I hate to think what damage there would be if the shear pin didn't do it's job! One bad impact and you're pulling scrap steel until you can afford a new one.
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xcspxlt
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groomerbob
Feb 26 2008, 11:10 AM
Sounds like you're in a situation where the shear pin is a necessity.  No one plans on hitting things.

Your shear pin hole tolerances have to be tight.  Otherwise the shear pin will bend instead of snap.  Could you drill a completely new hole a couple of inches from the old one?

I agree with the shear pin. We pulled the pintle hook off of the PB270 once. Broke two of the bolts and bent the other two. :oops:
Better to shear something than break something. :my2c:

GroomerBob,
What are you pulling with on your New Holland????
We are building a three point for ours with a reciever and pintle hook insert and plan to use the reciever pin as our shear point in case of accidents. The drag has trip blades but the front of a drag can always hook a tree on a corner! :cens:
XCSPXLT
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Greggie
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We don't have any shear pin. If you hook something, it will stop the groomer. That is the way it is.
Thanks,

Greg
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groomerbob
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xcspxlt
Feb 26 2008, 11:49 AM
GroomerBob,
What are you pulling with on your New Holland????
We are building a three point for ours with a reciever and pintle hook insert and plan to use the reciever pin as our shear point in case of accidents. The drag has trip blades but the front of a drag can always hook a tree on a corner! :cens:

We are pulling an old Arrowhead for now, but I ordered a new Ultimate for next year. We got one this year for the Sno-Plane and I love it! It pulls easy and yet cuts extremely well. The blades are tipped forward like a Sur-trac drag, but they are spring loaded. So..... the nature of the blade angle is to ride up and over things. When they do trip, the whole drag doesn't jump up in the air because the blade just releases. It doesn't "bite". And it has a shear pin in the tongue (which I haven't had to replace yet). I like redundant safety options!

I can't explain why it cuts so well. It doesn't have the mass of a Sur-trac drag so it doesn't pack like they do, but its the best I've ever used and I've used a lot of them over the years!
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groomerbob
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Greggie
Feb 26 2008, 12:38 PM
We don't have any shear pin. If you hook something, it will stop the groomer. That is the way it is.
Thanks,

Greg

If you do it enough times, something will eventually give. I've got a pile of scrap steel to prove it! It isn't so bad when the drag breaks, but when you pull the ass out of a grooming tractor, it isn't fun trying to coble it back together. I've done it on a number of machines over the years. Including my beloved Sno-Plane. Now everything I pull has shear pins.
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snoplane
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groomerbob
Feb 26 2008, 02:37 PM
Greggie
Feb 26 2008, 12:38 PM
We don't have any shear pin. If you hook something, it will stop the groomer. That is the way it is.
Thanks,

Greg

If you do it enough times, something will eventually give. I've got a pile of scrap steel to prove it! It isn't so bad when the drag breaks, but when you pull the ass out of a grooming tractor, it isn't fun trying to coble it back together. I've done it on a number of machines over the years. Including my beloved Sno-Plane. Now everything I pull has shear pins.

I do not like to see shear pins . How pays for slides or life's if that drag comes back down a icy hill. SnoPlane drags has spring trips to clear 8in rocks or what ever grows up under your snow cover. spring hitches and rubber shock pads give that jump to get loose from stomps and rocks. :my2c: I know there will be a wizzing match. safety chain would need to be how long for you to get stopped ?
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roady
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Weld it up, redrill it and put a grade 8 bolt in and call it good. that drag is used to being welded so it should respond nicely. :ha:
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Al Cooper
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Guys
Those Grade #2 shear pins recommended by Mike Heino and Mogul Master are done for a reason. Modify or change at your own risk!

Al Cooper
Prinoth LLC
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roady
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Al Cooper
Feb 28 2008, 06:11 PM
Guys
Those Grade #2 shear pins recommended by Mike Heino and Mogul Master are done for a reason. Modify or change at your own risk!

Al Cooper
Prinoth LLC

Al with all due respect I ran that machine for a few years. The drag broke twice in slide hitch area using grade 2 bolts. A grade 2 bolt would break practilly when the machine shifted.

We welded up the drag and started using grade 8 bolts. No more problems after that. Between the action of the ram steer and the soft bolts the failure rate of these drags was high. Many broke cylinders due to this poor design. We never did.

The Shop Industrial never had any intrest in backing up their product. All they wanted to do was sell us a new hitch system. Which BTW was design #3 for them.

Sure they make a good drag. But they are in the CYA mode most of the time.
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