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| Scandic Electical Problems; Blowing headlights on Scandics | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 25 2008, 10:00 PM (2,510 Views) | |
| Stoneham5 | Jan 25 2008, 10:00 PM Post #1 |
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My club has a '95 Scandic WideTrack and a '98 Sandic Superwide Track. Both have been wired for pan drags that use an electric motor to raise and lower the cutting blade on the drag. We keep blowing headlight bulbs. We change voltage regulators and they last for a couple of months and then the bulbs start going again. At a $100 per regulator and $15 per bulb, it is getting expensive. Has anyone else had these problems and how did you correct the problem? Assuming that you did. Any help, reference or assistance would be greatly appreciated. |
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| fourstroke | Jan 25 2008, 10:44 PM Post #2 |
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First of all do you have a battery in the sleds?
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past groomers alpine polaris lx ASV track truck bombi's br-200 tucker 2000 present groomer 2000 Blazer 4 dr w/7' drag 2001 GMC Jimmy 4 dr w/8' drag web site tbsci.com central new york 28 years grooming | |
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| traildog | Jan 26 2008, 08:16 AM Post #3 |
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Do you have a fuse or circuit breaker on the line feeding the electric motor? |
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| Rodehard | Jan 26 2008, 10:46 AM Post #4 |
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Do you have a battery? Is the drag wired into the charging (lighting) circuit? What size elect motor are you running? amp draw of motor? There is a fix. Just need some more info. |
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| drmiller100 | Jan 26 2008, 03:58 PM Post #5 |
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probably the lighting circuit is AC, and uses a "regulator" to limit voltage. The mid 90's arcticcat regulators can be put in place if htis is true. they are 30 bucks, and 10 times tougher then the skidoo or polaris regulators. find a cat dealer that has been in business a long time, you want the lilttle square ones with 2 wires. one wire is"ground" the other gets put into a hot line. sounds weird, but often regulators go bad because there is not enough load on the system. adding another light can help the regulators survive, and more light over the drag might be kind of nice!!!! |
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| Stoneham5 | Jan 27 2008, 11:20 PM Post #6 |
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Sorry it took so long for me to answer. Both Scandics have batteries. They both have electric start. I'll double check where the fuse is located (pretty sure I saw one, just not sure exactly where). I believe the drag is wired directly to the battery, but I'll double check on that as well. I'll see if I can find out what size a motor and the amps it draws. It is a standard 12 volt electric tongue jack used on travel trailers. I'll get all the rest of the info and post within the next couple of days. Thanks for the responses. Using the Artic Cat regulator is a differenct twist. Boy if that cures the problem, are the Ski-doo boys going to get a ribbing. I run Cats and all my in-laws are Ski-Doo diehards!!! |
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| tlc_skidoo | Jan 28 2008, 11:16 AM Post #7 |
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Make sure you use a Ski-doo branded voltage regulator. The OEM equivalents do not hold up and only last a month or 2... They cost a bit more, but end up being worth every penny. Terry |
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| Rodehard | Jan 28 2008, 02:11 PM Post #8 |
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If the lights blow when using the ram you are probably getting a voltage spike. Voltage will spike when first hitting the button (normal) or if it is run to the stop. To find how much, put a amp meter in series & cycle the switch. A circuit breaker will help if you are accidentially running the ram to it's limits. (a breaker is better than a fuse as it will reset itself) |
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| traildog | Jan 28 2008, 09:39 PM Post #9 |
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I agree with rodehard. I kept blowing fuses when reaching the stops, either up or down. Circuit breaker works much better, resets itself in about 10 secs. |
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| snowrider | Jan 29 2008, 08:01 PM Post #10 |
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we didnt have the drag but had the same problem of the headlight blowing and after replacing too many voltage regulators we found a short on the steering bar. Hasnt blown since
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| BR180 | |
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| snownut | Jan 30 2008, 08:29 PM Post #11 |
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We groom with a Skandic as well. My 02 is that the Skandic electrical system is marginal at best to operate an electric lift. While we do use an electric lift, the actuator MUST be adjusted so that it can't reach it's physical limit and stall the motor - sure problems. I wired ours with large diodes to function with the limit switches in the actuator (so that we only have to use 2 large power wires to the drag). I can email you a diagram if you would like - email me chuckt@tmpusa.com. Oh - also this year we installed a LED work lamp on the drag to take the place of an incandesent work light - less amp draw... best of luck with this problem |
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| e2spear | Jan 31 2008, 08:32 AM Post #12 |
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Try putting a battery on the drag, and run a small wire from the sled battery to the drag battery to keep it charged. We have a 95 and a 98 SWT's and the battery will groom for hours with out any problems. |
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| brsacjab | Jan 31 2008, 09:15 AM Post #13 |
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www.dragofspeculator.com www.endless-belt.com Lake Pleasant trail conditions Interactive Snowmobile Trail Conditions Map for Speculator, NY Region | |
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| snownut | Feb 1 2008, 12:51 PM Post #14 |
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I should have known better than to post.... Now you want PICTURES TOO???? I've barely learned to POST!!!!
OK - be patient - I'll get the son's camera out & go to it. BUT: Our linear actuator does have limit switches inside. On our SWT we installed a thumb toggle (above the headlamp dimmer sw) that runs an ATV winch controller on the sled (relay pack, avaialble from parts catalogs or dealer). The winch controller sends power via 2 large wires, (polarity dependent) from the sled battery to a quick connect on the drag tongue. The actuator runs happily until one of the limit switches is contacted. Then the diodes take over, only letting the actuator motor run one way (the opposite way it was going when it hit the limit). Works fine for us. I'll try to get some photos on here & maybe a diagram - if I can figure it out! badhabit (Chuck) |
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| brsacjab | Feb 26 2008, 12:01 AM Post #15 |
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TTT
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www.dragofspeculator.com www.endless-belt.com Lake Pleasant trail conditions Interactive Snowmobile Trail Conditions Map for Speculator, NY Region | |
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