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| Trail Surface for xc | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 30 2007, 09:27 PM (1,503 Views) | |
| 79bombi | Mar 30 2007, 09:27 PM Post #1 |
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79bombi
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If you were to design a mt top multi purpose bike/hike trail which could be used for xc in the winter what would be your preferred surface that would work for all of the uses in a reasonably flat area? Ashphalt, gravel, dirt...... And why? 79Bombi
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1979 Bombardier Bombi Deep Creek Lake, Maryland | |
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| Don McMurchy | Mar 31 2007, 06:21 AM Post #2 |
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For cross country skiers I would use fly paper!
It would be fun to watch.
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| Kahlua | Mar 31 2007, 10:59 AM Post #3 |
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Gravel. It will hold shape better than dirt will in the summer, and drain rainwater too. Fix it with a grader once twice a year if necessary, flat surface for xc/sleds |
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2006-2007 Season Totals: 2005 RS Rage 200 miles 2007 Grizzley 700 137 miles SWT/WT Skandics 77 hours Hours Trail Work 268 hours Pisten Bulley 23 hours New Holland 184 hours | |
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| Chief | Mar 31 2007, 11:04 AM Post #4 |
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Now Don, not everyone is familiar with your breed of millitant XC skiers, "Live free or Die" Viva Le Volvo |
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Grooming is a "Contact Sport" My Webpage | |
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| skier2 | Mar 31 2007, 03:07 PM Post #5 |
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79bombi I build trails at our XC at a state park in Pa. Bikes are not allowed on the trails because a lot of the trails when they get wet would be rutted up pretty bad from being too soft. Ideally as you said should be allowed to hike/bike/ski on trails. Hiking and skiing on the same trail is no problem. And found fescue grass is the best to plant if using dirt and then cut low in the fall. If you are going to bike also, map out the areas that get soft when its wet out and cover them with good layer of modified 2b, make sure you use the modified with the limestone dust mixed in. The snow lays better on the modifeied 2b rather than straight 2a gravel at start of the season when low snow. Plus if snow gets thin the modified is a little easier on the skis as far as scrathing them up. The gravel tends to stay in place better becuase of the limestane dust also which helps. On our one trail we have it level and flat as possible(no rocks) with grass cut low so if we just get a little bit of snow we can ski at least on one trail. On the wet areas I usueally work on drainage and put modified 2b down, then about 3-4" dirt with kentucy 51 grass because most trails in woods. If you're going to bike too, then i know the modified will work, you can try some areas with some dirt on top too. make sure its not clayest dirt, you want something that drains well and packs sort hard and some grass. Also if you can keep the center of the trail a little higher than sides, expecially on flat areas. The more standing water you keep off the trail the firmer it will stay for biking. Asphalt? I know we never did it because of cost, plus i do not think it would be the greatest in low snow(ploes plants on ashphat low snow) or might melt out faster because of heat it holds and black for absorbing heat faster , but that would be a great idea if you did that on one of you flater trails, then you could also roller ski in the off season. So you could mix it up some depending what the condition of the trail is. If you're in maryland then in same shape as us in SW pa, low snow a lot of the times. I'm no expert but this is what i've found over last few years i've been doing this. hope this helps Bob |
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| Don McMurchy | Mar 31 2007, 07:40 PM Post #6 |
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Viva Le Volvo
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| SCRR | Apr 3 2007, 07:27 PM Post #7 |
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3/4"minis crusher run(well compacted) works good for a gravel roadbed and if you want to prevent erosion you can spray it with emusified ashphalt or sprinkel on some cement dust(then dampen it down) before you compact. Keep in mind drainage is your main consern with any trail or road. Fast running water will wash away your material and standing water in the ditches will make the entire roadbed soft. It took me a while but I got it Viva Le Volvo!
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| If you don't fall off your not going fast enough! | |
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| 79bombi | Apr 3 2007, 08:58 PM Post #8 |
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79bombi
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Let me re-phrase this for Don - "If you were going to build a snowmobile trail that would be multipurpose in the summer what surface would you put in through a flat area?" 79Bombi Thanks for the replys |
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1979 Bombardier Bombi Deep Creek Lake, Maryland | |
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| Don McMurchy | Apr 3 2007, 09:25 PM Post #9 |
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Now that you phrased it that way.
I have to agree with SCRR 3/4 crushed, But drainage is the key to any road or trail. |
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| Pekabu | Apr 3 2007, 09:37 PM Post #10 |
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Also, for any big holes I would suggest putting in some Polaris's. They break down real easy and they don't move!
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| Southern NH Snow Slickers | |
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| Don McMurchy | Apr 4 2007, 05:48 AM Post #11 |
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The Fusion makes an excellent base!
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| melensdad | Apr 4 2007, 09:03 AM Post #12 |
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Has anyone tried and of the "soil binder" products? www.polypavement.com is one that I am familiar with. I know there are a dozen other brands on the market too. The military uses this stuff for airstrips, parks departments use it for nature trailers, etc. I've kicked around using it on my property for nature and fitness trails but never got around to using it because I'm still cutting the trails. The specs and brochures sure make it look attractive for multi-purpose use and as long as it has some drainage so the trail doesn't sit in water it sure looks like it would hold up to trail bikes, snowmobiles, XC-skis and joggers without any problems. It is also is something that can be installed by unskilled volunteer labor (people like us) as long as they read the instructions. It also can be spot repaired if damaged. Different brands are suitable for different types of soil. I am familiar with polypavement because it is probably the best choice for my soil conditions which are laden with clay, but other products are suitable for rocky soils, sandy soils, etc. Where I think it won't work is in constantly wet soils. If a path goes through a low spot, you'd be best to put down a couple 3 or 4 inch plastic culvert pipes, then dump soil over them to raise the path in those low spots so the polypavement type product performs properly. BTW, I'd really be interested to find someone who has used this type of product to learn from your experiences. HERE IS THE LINK: www.polypavement.com |
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| Chief | Apr 7 2007, 03:32 PM Post #13 |
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![]() Remember the culverts... send out the "appropriations comittee" |
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Grooming is a "Contact Sport" My Webpage | |
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| David Worel | Apr 8 2007, 10:12 PM Post #14 |
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Bob had a very good answer. To that I would add the following. What is the soil type on the proposed system. It the soil is very sandy the bicycles will quickly cut through the vegetation and you will get soft spots in the trail from loose sand. With more binder (like loam or organic material) in the soils the sot spots will not occur. What are the steepest slopes you intend to bicycle up or down? Beyond 10 % erosion will be a problem, with again the sander the soil the larger the problem. As for soil binder we have used them on limited areas, and they do work. The problem is they are very expensive. David |
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It would be fun to watch.
Viva Le Volvo!


10:33 AM Jul 11