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'76 Ranchero Sportsman; Dirt track '76 Ranchero circa 1980
Topic Started: Jul 4 2017, 06:17 PM (420 Views)
Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Posted: Jun 8 2016, 05:43 PM

'76 Ford Ranchero Sportsman

I received the '72 Ford Ranchero trans kit May 11th.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Pulled a mold of the front grill area and front bumper off of the recent release Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino. I will be updating the Ranchero to reflect the '74 thru '76 model years.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
This picture might give you an idea of what direction I am heading in if the title of this post didn't....will use the trans kit frame after the molded in fuel tank,rear axle and front lower control arms and struts are removed. Will be using a quick change with a 2 point hook up and a more detailed front end. Will shorten this frame 4 scale inches (4 m.m) so that it will be the same length wheel base wise as the 2 door Torino and not the station wagon/Ranchero wheel base length. The body, in the box area, will be shortened so that the overall length of the Ranchero body will be the same as a 2-door Torino.
The engine is a small block Ford stroker with a Borg-Warner T-10 4-speed tranny.

ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
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I am going to start with the frame first since it is the foundation for the rest of the build. The transkit frame from Motor City Resin Casters is the correct frame for the Ranchero...they did have to design the rear stub of the frame over the rear axle to accommodate the Ranchero's bed floor and in doing so the height is a little short...if I was building this transkit into a street version it would not be much of an issue, but with me building it as dirt track stock "car" I want something more accurate.

The Ford Intermediate frame that was used with the Torinos/Rancheros from 1972 thru 1976 came in three different styles....the 2 door frame with a 114" wheelbase , the 4 door frame with a 118" wheelbase and the station wagon/Ranchero frame that was a 118" wheelbase with a different frame section behind the hump that goes over the rear axle...its design is flatter due to the floor in the station wagon/ Ranchero.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
This picture shows the difference between the 2 door Torino frame (top) and the Ranchero frame (bottom) ....I will be shortening the wheelbase of the Ranchero frame 4 mm. so that it is the same as the 2 door Torino frame as well as shortening the rear frame section of the Ranchero.....when it is complete the Ranchero frame will be the same length and wheelbase as a 2 door Torino.

I rescaled the diagram for the 1:1 station wagon/Ranchero body mount locations to 1:25 ....note the different rear frame section as compared to the 2 -door frame (top) I will be using this diagram when I scratch build the rear frame section
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
I will be removing quite a bit of material from the transkit frame...it will end up looking like the frame on top. The transkit frame molded in front lower control arms will be removed as well as the rear frame section. The front frame stub will get re worked so that it looks more like the frame on top. The engine cross member will get reshaped in the rear portion.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
I have the rear stub portion of an Intermediate frame....the front stub was used on another sportsman build....using the diagram, I will scratch build a shortened Ranchero rear frame section. When it is complete, I will have a 2 - door Torino frame with a shortened Ranchero rear frame section....the rear frame section will be the same length as a 2-door. The reason for the station wagon/ Ranchero rear frame section is its something different that I haven't had the opportunity to do before and in the real world sense it would be a lighter stock frame section since it is pretty much flat verses the other style that drops down past the rear axle then back.....and who knows, if it works out for me I might try it with some other builds.


ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Wrapping up the frame and rear half of the body work.....interior floor and firewall done....will be doing the '74 -'76 grill/headlights etc. next.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Cut the floor and front panel out of the box....the floor of the box will now be diagonal with no panel between the box and the interior. Shortened the body 4" in 1:1 (4 mm. 1:25) by removing material between the rear wheel well opening and tail gate...shortened the wheelbase 4" in 1:1 (4 mm. 1:25)....opened the wheel well openings up. Used a medicine prescription bottle that was cut down for the rear wheel tubs.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Used the transkit interior....removed the door panels and enlarged the drive shaft tunnel just behind the engine firewall to accommodate the bell housing and transmission...raised the Right side floor area. Cut down the panel that was in the interior ahead of the box. Removed unnecessary items on the engine side of the firewall...wiper motor, heater core box, etc etc.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Removed the transkit frame from just ahead of the rear lower control arm mounts....reworked the transkit front frame section to make it a more plausible Ford intermediate frame. Added a resin pull Jo-Han frame section (over the rear axle) and fabbed a station wagon/Ranchero rear frame section from Evergreen. "X"ed the frame and left a portion of the transkit floor in place that will be part of the interior piece.

ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Successfully removed the '72 grill/headlight area , etc, etc from the trans kit and replaced it with a resin pull from the Starsky & Hutch Gran Torino....personal preference, I just like the way the '74 thru '76 Rancheros looked.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Building this to local rules 1980....rules stated "engine may be located so that number one spark plug has a maximum setback of 2"behind upper ball joint".... so to accommodate the small block Ford, the engine fire wall and front portion of the transmission tunnel got re-worked. Fit the basic 6 points of the cage to the body then attached it to the frame....cage is Evergreen 222 rod free hand bent with a home made tubing bender....don't have a jig for this one.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
So far no major issues with fit up.....left as much of the stock engine fire wall in place as possible as it helps locate and keep in place the body.
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Thanks to everyone for stopping by and taking a look......IAracefan...does the name Ted Swartslander from the Des Moines area sound familiar?

Wanted to do something way out of my comfort zone as far as the rear suspension goes...2 point rear end...mid 60's G.M.C pick up truck trailing arms courtesy of some forgotten past NASCAR build

Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Shortened the width of the mounting cross member and shortened the length of the trailing arms. I want to build a simple 2-point rear end suspension...as time has marched on there just is not as much information out there on the internet reference 2-point rear suspensions and regular stock cars (not NASCAR stock cars)...I am guessing this is what it should look like???....my experience has been with 3-point, 4-point and leaf spring rear suspensions ,so this has been a new learning experience for me. Going to scratch build a pinion mount and run the pan hard bar from the pinion on the quick change to just ahead of the Left side spring bucket where I added a mounting bracket....got ahold of some old Howe Racing Ent. info. and it shows this type of pan hard bar being used in the late 70's which fits perfectly with the era of this build.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Got all of the rear 3rd. of the cage done.....did this so that I could make a template for the bed floor which will become the diagonal fire wall between the drivers compartment and the tail gate.
Posted Image
I don't know why I didn't think of this earlier (like say a few years ago)....scratch built a set of door bars that I am going to make a mold of and cast as I need them....these are the style that I will be using on this build..... I purposely made the bars that mount to the frame/cage longer so that I can trim to fit depending on the build. Got a couple of other styles that I will be doing the same thing with.
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
The White '72 Ranchero hood has a different raised center section than the Red '76 Torino hood...the '76 hood raised center section is wider at the front and rear of the hood than the '72. I am going to use the '72 hood because of the hood scoop and add material to the hood so that it matches the '76 hood since the body now has a '76 grill/nose piece, front bumper, etc. etc.

Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Went with a Canadian Stock Car Products Deluxe U-Weld-It main cage and front hoop. Had to make some adjustments since the cage was designed for a G.M Metric frame. Will be pouring the resin door bars soon. The rear cage section is a basic coil spring type.

ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
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.z. Howe had a pinion mount panhard bar from the mid to late 70's that was used on a 3 link...I am trying to go with something that would have likely been found on a Late Model type car in the late 70's ....so are you saying the longer, behind the axle panhard bar would have been more apt to have been used with a 2 link...i.e a NASCAR type mid 60's G.M truck type trailing arm?
Another question: Could a 2 link have also been a Chevy 4 link (Chevelle) with the top 2 links removed with the bottom 2 links firmly mounted to the rear axle with a panhard bar installed? .?.
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
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WOW George thanks a lot...I will be saving those prints for future reference.

You said "The two point chevy truck arm system is not suited well to dirt, its just too rigid and has a pretty violent transfer of torque when you jump on the throttle....."
Does the length of the arms have anything to do with this? Is it the same as prying something with a short bar verses prying something with a long bar...i.e you would get more pry force with a long bar than a short bar or in the case or control arms less violent transfer of torque with a shorter set of lower control arms (as in Chevelle , big Ford...Galaxie,Lincoln) and more violent transfer of torque (as in mid 60's G.M trucks)...

Would this set up possibly have been used and if so, would it have worked on a dirt track.....
Chevelle frame...aftermarket or fabbed lower control arms only (2 point)....mounted in the stock location for a Chevelle....length of the arms the same as shown in the print (above) and mounted as shown in the print (toed in angle...outboard rear axle to inboard portion of the frame)....mounted to a quick change the same way a truck 2 point set up would be mounted....solid, no bushings
Again thanks....never did ANYTHING with a 2 point set up and I want to build a plausible 2 point set up for dirt.....
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
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QUOTE (Lefturns75 @ Sep 8 2016, 10:20 PM)
Without trying to get into any great detail I will just say that the long truck arms, along with the angle help the axle movement on uneven surfaces and during body rol l. The length will also help minimize pinion angle change through bump and rebound. The front attachment points are just forward of the front to rear center and near the centerline of the chassis. This gives good forward motion when forces are applied. This all works out quite well on pavement. When all the power goes to the rear axle all that makes you move forward is the contact patch of the tire to the pavement. You overpower that adhesion and you spin the tires. There is no "Cushion" in this system and you have to be careful how you stomp the loud pedal. How many times have you heard the Nascar boys talk about spinning the tires on a restart? I think this is exaggerated a little but a two point on dirt would be kind of like trying to race on ice. With the right tire, a black, shiny dry slick track and the right gear, you might do ok if you pushed the throttle like it was an egg.

If you shorten everything up you might as well multiply all the little problems times ten and add about a dozen more, including some wheel hop.

When you use the short trailing arms like they were intended along with a third top link, the force is applied a little different. Imagine a very long pry bar mounted in the position of the third top link. If you went to the back of the car and pulled down on it, you would be putting force on the rear axle and rear tires by prying up the chassis. That helps plant the rear. Add a spring to the top link for a little cushion and that helps you keep from breaking the tires loose when you stand on it. I have even seen leaf spring cars with a shock mounted in the top link location to help cushion the wrap up during acceleration. Now that I have you totally confused, I will shut up.





Finally someone who speaks my language wnw ....no confusion at all on this end and the more you explained , the more I understood. :)))
Wheel hop would be/is the biggest issue with a 2 point set up....
with that being said, I will need to apply the same thought process on this build as I would with a 3 point, 4 point, leaf spring, z-link.....
Going to stay with the original,uncut length truck arms, long panhard bar as shown in your prints,left shock behind the axle, Right shock ahead of the axle (to help reduce wheel hop)
I am going off of an article that was in Stock Car Racing magazine 37 years ago...stated that the car, a mid 70's Chevelle dirt Sportsman,had a 2 point rear. I found this car to be intriguing and would like to emulate parts of it in a build. No pictures of the set up, so I am going with what could have been plausible at the time.


ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
I finally finished the elusive dirt 2 point rear end w/ quick change ....a huge thanks to Lefturns75 (George)for showing the prints as well as his "been there and done that" input
Since there is very little out there on the internet about how to set up a 2 point dirt rear end (exception being the NASCAR builds ).... I went with what George told and showed me as well what little I could find on my own as well as some modern stuff as far as the springs and shocks.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
The staggered shocks help to eliminate wheel hop. I left the shafts long on purpose as they will help to set the rear ride height..once that is done the excess will be cut off. Used some rear springs (Monogram NASCAR) from the spare parts container. I went with some more modern technology as far as locating the springs and shocks....depending on which side, the shock is directly in front or behind the spring and as straight up and out board as possible. The adjustable Panhard bar is mocked up as I will be permanently attaching it after everything has been set in its proper place.
I figured that a 2 point rear end on dirt in the late 70's would have looked something a whole lot like this with what the racer had available at that time.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
This is the Revell Starsky & Hutch Ford Torino front end......great piece BUT...
I need to make a mold of the Ford Intermediate frame lower control arms and steering linkage for this and future builds...I want to do as much of a 1 piece, like what is pictured, as possible. The post for the coil springs and non descript spindles just don't do it for me as well.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
I wanted to make some front coil springs as well as a plausible spindle and rotor w/ brake caliper....started digging thru the spare parts and came up with this...
I will make a mold and cast the front coil springs....took a metal coil spring and slid it over a piece of sprew...there is enough length in that 1 piece for 2 coil springs.
The way that the steering linkage is attached on the Revell piece does not allow for a a late 1990's AMT/ERTL NASCAR type rotor and brake caliper to be attached to it. I would have to change the outer tie rods and shorten 2 other linkages to make things work. As luck would have it I remembered that the Jo-Han 1972 Torino Stock Car had separate spindles that are as close to the rear thing as your going to get. So I dug out the Jo-Han '72 Torino kit and found that the spindles actually press fit perfectly into the late 1990's AMT/ERTL NASCAR style rotors. I will still have to shorten the Revell steering linkage a small bit to get it to work with the Jo-Han spindles.
Now its on to removing the faux coil springs and spindles from the Revell piece and reshaping the rear portion of the engine cross member to make it more accurate. Once I get the new coil springs and spindle/rotor combos cast I will re-build the Revell piece and make a mold and cast it for this and future builds .

ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Moved on to the front suspension pieces.
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Removed the trans kit engine cross member and grafted in a resin cast engine cross member and lower control arms from the Revell Starsky & Hutch kit. Will have to either extend the length of the lower control arm struts to accommodate the trans kit frame or rework the front frame section to move the front cross member back....or a combination of both. ;bb;



ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
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Been accomplishing some on the Ranchero while working on the Mustang Late Model....
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Scratch built the front suspension....resin re-popped Amt NASCAR rotors and brake caliper combos, Jo-Han '72 Torino Stock Car spindles,Revell Starsky & Hutch Gran Torino lower control arms and steering linkages. Scratch built the upper "A" arms and hand wound the coils springs using 26 gauge floral wire. Used Walthers hex head brass machine screws for the weight jack screws and nuts.
Will be adding a resin re-pop Saginaw steering gear box and scratch built Pitman arm and idler arm.
To correct the issue of the lower control arm struts being too short I checked the front cross member...the distance between the front cross member and the engine cross member was too long as I suspected. Removed a portion of the frame section on each side to accomplish the correct distance between the 2 cross members.
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
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Posted: Apr 15 2017, 10:49 PM

...Thanks Mark
This one has been put on hold til I get the '59 Galaxie finished......
been busy on that one(Galaxie) doing decals for the last couple of weeks...need to get that one wrapped up soon.

ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
Posted: Jun 3 2017, 11:58 AM

So I am back to work on this build......
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
Mounted the fuel cell, ran the vent line and mounted the vent filter.... plumbed the fuel line to the rear fire wall. Mounted the battery box w/ battery and connected the negative cable to the cage and ran the positive cable to the area it needs to be in.
Getting ready to mount the diagonal floor/panel in the box area.

ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
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Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
It only took 86,465 pieces of flat stock to get the diagonal box floor/fire wall in place...well,it seemed like it did .?. ...wheel tubs are a combination of prescription medicine bottles and flat stock. Will be making an access panel for the fuel cell, weight jacks, etc.

ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
AAAAAARRRRGGGHHH

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I knew better than to do this....when assembling the front suspension I attached the upper "A" arms to the top of the frame and worked from there....now the entire front suspension will have to come apart since the front end now sits in the air like a 4X4 with wheels and tires in place for a fit up. The front suspension (upper and lower control arms, rotors, etc.) need to come up about 4 mm. It's kind of hard to see but the center portion of the front brake rotor should be at the same level as the open part of the rear axle tube.
After this ordeal, I'm building a front suspension jig so that I can assemble a front end with out being way out in Left field....something like you would find in a frame shop.
Been using a liberal amount of a de bonder with less than desirable results... mm1
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
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Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
The de-bonder that I used to take apart the front suspension pieces finally worked...unfortunately ruining some of it...the steering linkages came apart and could not be salvaged. mm1
I have been wanting to do this for quite a while now...scratch build a stock stub steering for a rear steer Ford...I thought that the resin cast that I did previously would work fine , but in the end I was less than satisfied with the results....the detail just wasn't there and trying to modify the flimsy piece was difficult at best.

Picked up some K&S 1mm. Brass rod. Using the what originally the master for the resin cast piece as a template, I bent the Brass rod to match it. Solder the 3 pieces together and test fit :)))
The adjuster sleeve between the inner and outer tie rods will be Evergreen round tubing unless I can find some really thin walled K&S metal of some sort. The rounded ends on the center link and outer tie rods will be K&S Brass
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
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Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
....finally got things figured out how I want them.....inner/outer tie rods soldered to the center link and used Evergreen rod for the for the adjuster sleeve between the inner and out tie rods. Carefully took the Dremel tool to the Evergreen rod to give the adjuster sleeves some detail and to the soldered joints to clean them up and give the steering knuckles some detail.
With being able to do this now, I will be able scratch build a stock stub steering set up, whether its a front or rear steer like this one.
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1932 Ford Altered drag car
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
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