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Old Glue Debonder
Topic Started: Feb 28 2016, 10:04 AM (355 Views)
Lefturns75
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I gave this tip to someone here, but never posted a thread about it. If some of you are like me, you pick up a built model sometimes because the price is right and you plan to restore it. I have tried all kinds of ways to get the old glue to turn loose. Soak em in Purple Power, leave em in the freezer a couple of days, and who knows what else. Just by chance once I found this method:
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Now this is not what this product is really for but guys, it works. I have used this to debond at least 8 gloo-bomb built ups I have picked up. Now these were old builds and done with tube glue. I can't say I have used it on liquid glue builds, other than maybe some crappy testors liquid glue. I use a simple small brush and apply this stuff as you would if you were using liquid glue during assembly. If you can work your hobby knife into a seam and create a small space before you apply, it helps even more. I have picked up an old IMC Lola built kit that was done poorly with tube glue. I was able to break down the entire car without breaking any of the small suspension parts or anything else. I did however destroy the passenger seat due to the fact there must have been a half tube of glue under there. I did get the seat off the tub and removed the glue blob.
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You have to be careful as this stuff does soften the plastic a little and will cause some fingerprints on the surface if you are sloppy. Once your parts are broken down, simply rinse the parts in water which seems to stop the process. I have not tried this on super glue joints but there is already a de bonder for that. I have saved some real ugly gloo-bombs with this stuff. Now you will break parts at times when trying to tear down a kit that the builder used the whole tube of glue on and some gloo-bombs are just too bad to tackle. The Lola will be saved and at the purchase price of $8 its much easier on the wallet than the $69-$100 price tag I see on the vintage un-built examples. If you have an old build to tear down or a flea-market gloo-bomb find you want to restore, give this a try. I found this bottle at a Hobby Lobby and I am sure other hobby outlets will carry it or order from testors. Should you have any questions about this, please ask me, I am more than willing to help.
Ordinarily I am insane, but I do have lucid moments where I am merely stupid.
I never TRY to hit another car. But when I do I make sure its a Prius.


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dirtman
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Thanks man, I will definitely be using this tip in the future. I do a lot of glue bomb redos!

Rett
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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
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....Yes, George, the Model Master paint remover is a wonderful product.... I have used it just as you described with great results but there is another product out there that cost 1/2 as much (Model Master last price check was around $6.00 for a 1.75 oz. bottle) and has 14.25 oz. more and that is Onyx Professional 100% pure Acetone nail polish remover available at Walmart for around $ 2.50. Nail polish is akin to the same paint that we use on builds....cut it with thinner and you can shoot it thru an air brush....Acetone is the key ingredient in what Model Master sells.

I add this because not every hobby store has the paint remover and I know that some of you have to travel, many miles sometimes round trip, to make purchases at the hobby store of your choice.....besides that I am a cheap skate.

I would think that most everyone has a drug store or grocery store near by that would be carrying nail polish remover.

One caveat I might add is treat this exactly like what George described with clean up after separating the parts....as with what he described , the longer it sits , the more unnecessary damage could occur......to repeat what George said, your not removing the glue as you would be with paint/polish but rather softening the plastic around the bond and making it pliable enough to pull apart....the Acetone causing a reaction with the #6 Styrene.

As far as parts that have been bonded with CA (super glue) ....same principal applies here as well since the CA is melding the pieces together....a liberal application will more than likely be needed for those parts where an excessive amount of CA was used.....same as what George described with the tube glue.
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
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FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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jpmracing
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Thanks man! :))) :)))
PIERRE MICHAUD

check out my other builds
http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/jpmracin.../?sort=2&page=1
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Lefturns75
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Acetone I am sure will get the job done, but I have not had that good of luck with it trying to tear down a built kit. I have found the Acryl works best on things built with the old Testors orange Tube Glue from the past. I am by no means any kind of chemist but I have found some information doing some research and asking questions. The Testors Acryl contains n-Methyl-Pyrrolidone and Glycol Ether. It makes no mention of Acetone. The old Testors tube glue we used as kids contained molecules of polystyrene in an acetone solvent. When we would squirt the glue out of the tube, we could detect the strong solvent smell as it evaporated. The plastic molecules would then attach and we had a bond. Using too much, as we all did at times, would cause the plastic to "Melt" around joints due to the excess solvent. I am sure you have seen old builds where the builder used a hearty amount of glue to attach the glass to the interior and there would be sunken and melted areas in the roof. This was due in part to the acetone solvent not being able to evaporate and attacking the plastic. This type of bond is harder to break since the plastic is "Welded" together rather than a molecule bond.

Now with all this info I am sure you ask: "What is the point"? Well, think of a zipper. When the old tube glue did its job, the plastic molecules bonded together like a zipper. The molecules in the chemicals in the Acryl act to "un zip" the molecule bond. Now, with all this info its safe to say both acetone and Acryl with both work. I however find I get less damage to parts using the Acryl and don't have to deal with the acetone odor. The Acryl WILL attack the plastic but I don't think it goes as deep as acetone and does not make a much of a mess. Just my opinion. I hope some of this info helps and also the tip itself. This stuff works great for me but in the end, use what you get the best results with.
Ordinarily I am insane, but I do have lucid moments where I am merely stupid.
I never TRY to hit another car. But when I do I make sure its a Prius.


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Brian Conn
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2 Corinthians 5:17
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Thanks for the info. George! :))) I'll have to give some of that Testors Acryl a try....I have some glue bomb engines that I am going to rebuild.....been using Acetone.... I did notice that some came apart rather easy...I am assuming that they where put together with something other than the old Testors Orange Tube Glue while others are not coming apart at all...the old Testors glue perhaps?

My wife Amy has informed me that there are 2 different types of nail polish remover...one is cut with water and the other is 100% Acetone....
ON THE WORK BENCH....
Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino (Season 2)
Posted ImageHosted on Fotki
FOR THE 2018 RACING SEASON
1978 Mustang II Hatchback dirt Late Model

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Another Rick
Advanced Member
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I bought a bottle of the Testor's Acryl yesterday at Hobby Lobby, with my 40% coupon it was only $3.59+ tax :))) I have a 40 Ford sedan that I picked up off Ebay several years ago that I have tried freezing with no luck, hopefully this will do the trick. Will let you all know how it works.
I build models because GOD allows me to and because I can't afford the real thing!!
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Lefturns75
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AR, if your 40 is not a really bad gloo-bomb, you should be happy with the result. Give it time and don't expect an "instant" result although at times you will get that. There are some joints that just can't be saved but I have had great luck with this stuff on many projects, not to mention saving some brushes and being able to clean just about any type paint on my bench. Good luck and let us know.
Ordinarily I am insane, but I do have lucid moments where I am merely stupid.
I never TRY to hit another car. But when I do I make sure its a Prius.


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