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'41 Plymouth Gasser Barn Find; Completed! w/ final pics
Topic Started: Jan 28 2016, 11:59 PM (624 Views)
Bernard Kron
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This is new territory for me. I've never done a rusted model before. The upcoming NNL West in early March has Rat Rods as one of their featured categories and I thought I'd build something for that. But this model is not it! I started this AMT '41 Plymouth to gain experience with weathering powders and the table salt corrosion technique.

I'm building it as a "barn find" 60's gasser. The motor is the kit inline 6 with a finned aluminum head courtesy of The Parts Box (believe it or not such a part exists...). I'll be building a 3-carb manifold and straight exhausts. The tires are AMT kit tires woith hand painted whitewalls. The front axle is the gasser piece from the AMT '32 Ford Phaeton. Virtually all the other parts come from the kit. The car will have weathered grill, lights and bumpers to gain experience weathering chrome. The full-on Rat Rod I'll be building for the NNL West will use what I've learned from doing this one. It will be a pretty "classic" Rat od, if such a thing exists - Buick Straight 8, '29 Ford RPU bucket, Kelsey Hayes wire wheels, super low z'd frame, etc.

I did the rust job after researching weathering techniques on line and on YouTube. In particular I found the military modelers quite helpful, as well as the excellent videos produced by Virgil Suárez (Dr. Cranky). In his videos the good Doctor points out that you will probably put down too much rust in your first attempt but to not let that worry you. It's how you learn the limits and extent of the techniques. I found this very much to be the case.

The corrosion of the bodywork was done using a blend of table salt, coarse salt and baking powder applied to the damp body after panting it with Duplicolor red primer. After applying the salt and letting it dry overnight I sprayed the body with Duplicolor Hampsted Green Metallic. This is the basic body color. Once the body color was dry I removed the salt using a stiff tooth brush. Then I applied weathering powders using two shades of rust (light and dark) and a light grey "dirt" as well. The owders were given to me several years ago by a friend so I don’t have the original packaging. However, I believe they are Bragdon Enterprises powders. They are excellent.

Once done I sealed everything with Testors DullCote. While I really like the overall effect I hope to be able to do a less rusty car with my next project.

Thanx for lookin,
B.

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henryc43
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GREAT weathering! Nicely done! :))) fbr
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Another Rick
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:))) Looks really good to me. I wouldn't call that too much rust, especially if the barn roof had a leak or two. This is something I really need to start working with. Keep those updates coming.
I build models because GOD allows me to and because I can't afford the real thing!!
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wisdonm
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I've never tried weathering, but this does look good. :)))

Has a checkered past.

Stand on it....brakes only slow yoou down.
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modelcarman
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Very sweet job!!!!! :)))
The Model Car Man Ricky
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Dr Kerry
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Very nice Bernard, saw it on another forum.. Looks great!!!!
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Bernard Kron
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Thank you everyone!

I’ve completed the interior and have the chassis mostly assembled, only missing some steering bits, front shocks and drive shaft, all of which have been painted. Both the chassis and the interior have been weathered as well. I think they’ve benefitted from the initial experience of doing the body. I was able to more accurately place the rust where I wanted it and to moderate the rust effects when I wanted to. The interior is more dirty and stained than rusty, too.

The motor is half built and should be done soon. It requires its own approach to weathering since it has some aluminum hop up parts and the Chrysler Corp. engine block paint was an aluminum silver metallic, which would act as a partial barrier to rust.

This is all very interesting!

Thanx for lookin’,
B.

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Bernard Kron
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This is a small update. I’m making good progress and close to final assembly. The window glass was weathered and installed. I included door glass since otherwise the car would have been rusted through and through. With full weathered glass the car looks even more far gone! I also installed the grill and headlights. The motor parts are completed. I scratch built a ribbed cast log-style manifold to hold three Stromberg 97’s. The exhaust manifold is adapted from the kit’s wedge-head Plymouth V8. Still to do is installation of the engine accessories and magneto ignition and, of course, the weathering, which has actually been started but doesn't show up in the low-light workbench pictures.

I hope to have this completed by the weekend.

Thanx for lookin’,
B.

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krwasson
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:))) :))) rlr
Kevin
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carl
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:))) rlr :)))
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Bernard Kron
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Thanks guys!

I got the engine finished and weathered. The triple Stromberg 97’s are from my stash of resin pieces by the late Ron Royston at Early Years Resin. The “doghouse” over them is a strip of styrene finished in Testors Metalizer paint and the pre-wired resin magneto is by Morgan Automotive Detail, adapted to fit the molded in kit distributor drive. For those who are curious, the Chrysler Corp. P series flathead sixes had the inner 4 exhaust ports siamesed in pairs which makes the exhaust layout look like a 4 banger. The intake ports were siamesed in pairs which explains the carburetor layout. As mentioned earlier the intake manifold is scratch built and the exhaust manifold is from the kit, it’s one side of the wedge V8 pair, bent to fit the six’s exhaust layout.

I’m on the home stretch now and should be done soon…

Thanx for lookin;,
B.

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Lefturns75
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Pretty good Lookin' Heap you got going there Bernard. I have found your engine mods of interest. If you recall, last season my "Roy Takahashi" Anglia with Hudson power was done with this very same kit engine. At the time I built it, there were no Hudson sixes to rob from a kit. I used a cut down AMT 32 Ford grille for the finned head. I enjoy working with the bent and rusty more than I do the stuff that shines. I found it easier for me to rust something up and weather it than lay on one of those miles deep smooth paint jobs. Good job on this and hope to see you do more of them. wnw wnw
Ordinarily I am insane, but I do have lucid moments where I am merely stupid.
I never TRY to hit another car. But when I do I make sure its a Prius.


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Bernard Kron
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Thanks! I never thought of using grills as a source for ribbed stock. Excellent idea! Definitely worth stealing....
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Throback
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B) :))) :)))
Frank Burval aka Frank the CRANK
Throback Scale Motorsports
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-Do your part to recycle plastic. Build models! (Me)
-Throback, its an old nickname...has nothing to do with fishing!!!
-Hey...Its Saturday night! If your not slingin' dirt you better be kickin' asphalt!!!! (Me)
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Bernard Kron
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Thanks!

I thought I’d snap some pictures of the chassis before it got covered up. I’m happy with how the front of the end and the engine compartment came out. Much of it will disappear under the bodywork unfortunately. I should be able to do a formal shoot of the completed car in the next day or two.

Thanx to you all for following along and for your interest and comments.
B.

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Bernard Kron
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All done!

Thanx to all for following along!
B.

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Bernard Kron
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krwasson
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:))) :))) :)))
Kevin
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Another Rick
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A couple of Scotch-brites and some Duplicolor sandable primer and you are back in business. That is a really good looking weathering job. :)))
I build models because GOD allows me to and because I can't afford the real thing!!
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dirttrackdave
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Motors are realy sweat!! Glade kit is back.will be gettting one for vintage oval car(flat head mill),drag and maybe custom.Did one few years ago,chop top
opened doors(easy on this kit.Will be looking if I make NNL East. wnw :)))
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IAracefan
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Fantastic job on all the weathering, it looks perfect! jsm fbr :)))
Kevin
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Bernard Kron
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Broken Photobucket links repaired. For now I'm only updating completed model pics. Updating w.i.p. links is just too huge a task! I'll update them on request...
Keep on buildin'
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