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How I alter my modified frames; Model King frame how to by request
Topic Started: Mar 15 2011, 09:02 AM (1,076 Views)
USMC E5
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Stock Model King asphalt frame

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Markings for where I do my cutting.
The 1st marking is 9/16"
the 2nd marking is 3/16"
rear one is cutting across a line of rivits and then removing the fuel cell

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Hacked up

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Joined back together. Notice the 1/16" round stock (Evergreen #222 rod) tucked down into the grooves of the frame. Key item to restoring strength.

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Stock and altered side by side.
Your engine will sit back closer to the firewall. You will also need to re-shape the transmission mount and shorten the driveshaft.

I just use CA to glue everything together. Im sure the solvent/plastic welder works but I like the CA for this.

I hope this helps. There are many ways to achieve the same result but this is how I do it and it is easy. Just keep your cuts square.

In a day or so I will show some pics with filling in the groove with body filler and primer and paint.
   You're not drunk if you can lie on the floor without holding on.
-- Dean Martin
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ricky12
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Very nice fbr thanks
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RandB11
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:))) Thanks ! Looking forward to the next lesson! I got a couple of Pintos I want to do.

Rick
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Racefan
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Although I know of this technique, I appreciate you taking the time to share this with everyone!
Ed
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USMC E5
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Evercoat Rage body filler, hardener, craft stick for mixing and applying, carboard box for mixing pallet surface.
I have the gallon can from messing around with custom body work but a smaller spot filler tube is available at most quality auto body suppliers.
I stay away from Bondo brand filler as it has a history of shrinking plus the Evercoat is a light weight filler thats sands a lot easier and faster with no shrinkage.
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I use the craft stick to mix the filler and hardener, wipe it clean with a rag and then apply the filler into the grooves. Working from one end to the other pushing it in there making sure to not have any pinholes or trapped air
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I have 3 more craft sticks with sand paper glued to them with rubber cement. One is 180, another is 220 and the last is 320. Use the 180 to knock down the big stuff and the 220 to shape and the 320 to finish. The 220 finishes out nice and smooth with some cross sanding but the 320 is extra insurance for it being smooth and less need for extra primer coverage to sand it back smooth.
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Now I have 2 frames ready for 2 Richie Evans builds. I will fab up the cages and bars prior to primer
   You're not drunk if you can lie on the floor without holding on.
-- Dean Martin
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ronr
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Frame How-To is great Tom! Now how about one on the bars .?.
RON ROYSTON
"FLAT HEADS & INLINERS FOREVER""
http://photobucket.com/albums/b68/RonR1025/
http://www.earlyyearsresin.com/
"POP`s"
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