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40 Ford (ready to race); Finished 8-30
Topic Started: Jul 14 2010, 06:43 PM (2,790 Views)
carl
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Kevin your doing a great job on this car your bar work looks real good and your bumpers are right on

Carl
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TECHMAN
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:lol: :lol: :lol:

NICE......REAL NICE !!!!!!!!!! fbr fbr :))) :)))

And RON......your old "Jezebel" is REALLY SHARP !!!!!!!!!!! :))) :)))

DJ
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krwasson
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Thanks guys. Ron "Jezebelle" looks awesome :))) . Well all i am doing for the day is hard mounting the front bumper. The way i had it in mock up it would have fallen off the first time i used it. Gave it a little more distance from the radiator. Tried to make it as crude as possible and still function as a bumper. It is all angle pieces. Main square is just a bit bigger than the supports posts. Would this have been bolted on or welded?

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Kevin
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ronr
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Welded and it looks Great! :))) :))) rlr
RON ROYSTON
"FLAT HEADS & INLINERS FOREVER""
http://photobucket.com/albums/b68/RonR1025/
http://www.earlyyearsresin.com/
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krwasson
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Frame is finished i think. From the following pictures can anyone see something i should add to the frame before i paint it tomorrow .?. Floor will be added and steering support before i paint.

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Kevin
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TECHMAN
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:lol: :lol: :lol:

KEVIN, that is REALLY some FIRST CLASS WORK !!!!!!!!!!! LOOKS GREAT!!!!!! fbr fbr :))) :)))

DJ
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ronr
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:))) :))) :)))
RON ROYSTON
"FLAT HEADS & INLINERS FOREVER""
http://photobucket.com/albums/b68/RonR1025/
http://www.earlyyearsresin.com/
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carl
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Kevin nice job ,looks great fbr

Carl
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krwasson
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Could not resist posting this mock up. Starting to get fired up about this build now that it looks more like a race car now. Painted the frame semi-gloss black to make it blend better with the red and white body. I know the wheels aren't the ones i am using on the car before someone says i can't use them /b/ . Hope to put a clear coat on the body tomorrow. Also removed the chrome from the engine parts and will get it primer tomorrow. No clue what color these motors were but it will not be black. Don't want it to blend in with the frame. I will be using the number 67 for this build.

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Kevin
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Rooster
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Looking real nice!
"If the shoe fits wear it,
If the truth hurts bear it!"
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carl
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:))) :))) :))) fbr

Carl
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ronr
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Engine colors would have been, Olive Green,Black, Red or Dark Blue. `40s engines were Dark olive Green. Hope that helps. looking good Kevin! :))) :)))
RON ROYSTON
"FLAT HEADS & INLINERS FOREVER""
http://photobucket.com/albums/b68/RonR1025/
http://www.earlyyearsresin.com/
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Hot Rod Tom
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fbr jsm :))) Lookin' right on the money honey !!!!! rlr
Hot Rod Tom
"When I was a little boy, I could only ride my bike up and down the street. When I got older, I got to go around the block!!!" Always did it counter clockwise!
http://s999.photobucket.com/albums/af118/HotRodTom99/[/URL]
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fireguy14
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:))) rlr
Dave Sullivan
my album
There is no replacement for displacement!!
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KARL STARK
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Kevin, you are getting the look of a real stock car from back in the day. Great work fbr fbr fbr
Old School Fool
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TECHMAN
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:lol: :lol: :lol:

ALL RIGHT !!!!!!!!!!! LOOKIN' GOOD, KEVIN !!!!!!!!!!! fbr fbr :))) :)))

The color combo is real "of the era" type too !!!!!!!!

DJ

ps---and RON was giving you all the different "factory colors", and those were certainly ALL OVER THE PLACE, but too, have seen ones that different people have painted all most "every color under the sun" in order to "match their car".........

KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK !!!!!!!!!!!
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ronr
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Engine Colour List:
Top to Bottom:

Ford....Mercury....Trucks....Commercial.


YEAR
FORD
MERCURY
TRUCKS
COMMERCIAL

1932
Dark Green
N/A
Dark Green
Dark Green

1933
Dark Green
N/A
Dark Green
Dark Green

1934
Dark Green
N/A
Dark Green
Dark Green

1935
Dark Green
N/A
Dark Green
Dark Green

1936
Dark Green
N/A
Dark Green
Dark Green

1937
Dark Green
N/A
Dark Green
Dark Green

1938
Dark Green
N/A
Dark Green
Dark Green

1939
Dark Green
Dark Green
Dark Green
Dark Green

1940
Dark Green
Dark Green
Dark Green
Dark Green

1941
Dark Green or Dark Blue
Dark Blue
Dark Green
Dark Blue

1942
Dark Green
Dark Blue
Dark Green or Dark Blue
Dark Blue

1943
? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?

1944
? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?

1945
? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?

1946
Dark Blue
Dark Blue
Dark Blue
Dark Blue

1947
Dark Blue
Dark Blue
Dark Blue
Dark Blue

1948
Dark Blue
Dark Blue
Dark Blue
Deep Red

1949
Dark Blue
Green
Dark Blue or Green
Deep Red

1949 1/2
Bronze
Green
Bronze or Green
Deep red

1950
Bronze
Green
Bronze or Green
Deep Red

1951
Bronze
Green
Bronze or Green
Deep Red

1952
Tangerine or Green*
Tangerine or Green*
Green*
Green*

1953
Tangerine or Green*
Tangerine or Green*
Green*
Green*

1954
Green*
Green*
Green*
Green*

I use Flat Olive Green Craft paint from Wally-World for `40s engines.
RON ROYSTON
"FLAT HEADS & INLINERS FOREVER""
http://photobucket.com/albums/b68/RonR1025/
http://www.earlyyearsresin.com/
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krwasson
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Thanks guys for the kind words. Ron really want to say a big thank you for taking the time to put the engine color chart together. Went through my military paints and came up with a close green i think. When it cures i will go back and paint the detail stuff.

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Kevin
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ronr
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:))) :))) Justadd a Black wash and maybe go out side pick up a little loose dirt and rub it on it.
RON ROYSTON
"FLAT HEADS & INLINERS FOREVER""
http://photobucket.com/albums/b68/RonR1025/
http://www.earlyyearsresin.com/
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krwasson
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Today i just reworked the sprint car seat i used in some of the pictures i have already posted. As it was it was incorrect. Removed the support on the right side of the seat and carved it to look like the left side.

On the motor i want to wire it up but i don't know where the wires begin. I know they end on the plugs but where do they start?

When i start to mount the seat would it be correct if i do a center mount with it? Then where would the pedels and steering wheel be?

Plan is to use the stock rims in the kit but with a little wider tire if i can get them to fit. Does the tread pattern matter?

Plan on decaling a little tomorrow since it will have been 48 hours since i coated the body with future floor polish. It still isn't shinning the way i want yet but it will when i am done i hope.
Kevin
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carl
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Kevin on your flathead the distributor is in the front of the block right in the center.Im sure Ron has a picture of it
The seat should be in its stock position as is the steering wheel

Carl
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ronr
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These will give you a general idea.
RON ROYSTON
"FLAT HEADS & INLINERS FOREVER""
http://photobucket.com/albums/b68/RonR1025/
http://www.earlyyearsresin.com/
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ronr
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Heres some pics of the engine in Jezebelle. Same basic wiring. The last pic above is a good example of a `40s dist. and I love those Thickson heads.
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Hope this helps. I`ll start work on the engine for my build tomorrow and post better pics of the wiring.
RON ROYSTON
"FLAT HEADS & INLINERS FOREVER""
http://photobucket.com/albums/b68/RonR1025/
http://www.earlyyearsresin.com/
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carl
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I told you Ron would have some pics


Carl
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Hot Rod Tom
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r2d2 Just for info Kev, what I do to wire an early Flatty is drill a horizontal hole through the distributor (just large enough to slip 4 ignition wires thru, wires long enough for both banks) take a small drop of CA on a toothpick to center them, and your good to go. Trim as needed, and if needed a small drop of black paint to cover the CA on the sides of the distributor. They really are easier than a late model !!!! :( .?.
Hot Rod Tom
"When I was a little boy, I could only ride my bike up and down the street. When I got older, I got to go around the block!!!" Always did it counter clockwise!
http://s999.photobucket.com/albums/af118/HotRodTom99/[/URL]
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