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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 4 2017, 01:37 AM (100 Views) | |
| niksus | Jan 4 2017, 01:37 AM Post #1 |
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Hi to everyone out there...My name is Nik...ex pat pom living in Auckland NZ...I have a 73 SS50 FS1...i rescued it from a barn in south Auckland...I believe it could be a dutch bike as they were never sold here new as far as NZ Yamaha know...I am wanting to fit a YB100 motor but I am stuck on the wiring...any help regards what colours connect to where would be awesome...Thanks in advance...great site by the way...Kio Ora
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| chasthor | Jan 4 2017, 05:00 AM Post #2 |
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Spam Finder General
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Welcome to the site Nik. There are a few on here who have carried out that conversion, and I am sure they will offer advice. |
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| niksus | Jan 4 2017, 06:26 AM Post #3 |
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Thank you for the welcome...I am pretty good mechanically but wiring is not my forte...I have read online some comments regarding the wires but usually a bit vague and i would like to do it right rather than having electrical issues or things like bulbs blowing...:) |
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| mech73 | Jan 4 2017, 12:19 PM Post #4 |
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Fizzmeister Extrodinaire
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I've done this conversion twice, but both times I fitted a CDI magneto from a PW50 to the YB motor and converted to 12V. However there's no reason why you can't use the original YB100 magneto with either a 12V conversion or stick to the original 6V. The 12V conversion will give brighter lights and indicators and won't blow bulbs, but will involve some soldering modifications to the magneto, a few wiring mods and a set of 12V parts including flasher unit and regulator/rectifier. Staying with 6V is the easiest and it should be possible to make it work well, so I assume this is what you will try first. The early YB100 motors were fitted with a 3 wire magneto (black, yellow, green). This should be fully compatible with the early fizzy loom (I'm making the assumption that the loom is the same as a uk one). The YB generator is probably more powerful, so to use the extra power and stop bulbs blowing too often, fit a higher wattage bulb in the headlamp (at least 6V 25W) that will have the effect of pulling the volts down a little. You can go higher on the wattage if you want but don't fit a 12V bulb as that will be higher resistance and will raise the voltage and make the other bulbs blow. With this unregulated 6V system a good battery is essential as it will absorb some of the excess power and act as a crude regulator. Worn batteries have high internal resistance and can't perform this function as effectively. If you have a later YB motor with a 4 wire generator (Black/white, green, yellow, green/red) it's a little more complicated. Black/white is definitely ignition and can attach to the black on the fizzy loom that goes to the ignition switch and top coil. You then have two wires (green and yellow) on the fizzy loom to attach to 3 wires (green, yellow or green/red) from the YB generator. You need to attach two of the YB generator wires to the Fizzy loom and tape the other one up. The three YB generator wires are all 'taps' from the same lighting/charging coil, but I don't know the order. A few tests with a meter should establish the order as follows. The wire with the highest resistance to earth will be at one end of the coil and will have the highest output. (We will call this OP1) The wire with second highest resistance measurement will have the middle output (OP2) The wire with lowest resistance will have the lowest output. (OP3) I would start by using the two lower outputs to attach to the fizzy loom as that is less likely to blow bulbs or boil the battery, So OP2 from the YB generator goes to yellow on the fizzy loom and OP3 to green. Tape up OP1. If you find you need more power or want to try it, then it would be OP1 to yellow and OP2 to green. Tape up OP3. Hopefully someone else has done this exact conversion and will tell us exactly which wires to connect
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| niksus | Jan 4 2017, 09:28 PM Post #5 |
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Good morning...well...thank you Mech73...great advice about the swap...at this stage I will stay with the 6v as light power will not be a problem as once I get it complied with at test station I will run my portable LED headlight off the front which runs for hours and hours...I am going to strat pulling out the SS50 motor at the weekend then I will have a look at wiring...At some stage I will be selling the 5sp original as it has brand new 45mm barrel kit and head on it and runs ok but I am 100kgs and just want a bit more zip to be safe ...thanks again for info and anyone else who has info for this conversion or even diagrams etc by all means chime in...
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